Mexico City: Calm Before the Coronavirus Storm

One of the shiniest silver linings from this pandemic is that I am connecting with people from all over the world. From North Carolina to Germany, Argentina to a fellow Kunming-er in Ireland, I am getting to know people from places now on my post-quarantine bucket list. 

Last week, an Instagram friend named Victoria reached out to me from Mexico City, asking if she could share her story on my blog. YES, PLEASE! This is what Dirty Elbows is all about. This is why I love to travel. This is why I love meeting strangers. Swapping stories and making connections are what drive me.

This is why I am super excited to introduce today’s story all the way from Mexico City.

Meet Victoria!

Victoria is originally from Long Beach, California but has been living in Mexico City for 17 years. She is an English teacher and a visual artist (check out her gorgeous artwork here) who loves all things cultural and lives with two beautiful tortoiseshell cat sisters in an apartment downtown, close to the Alameda Park.

(All photos are Victoria’s. Comments are mine. Follow her on Instagram for more beautiful photos of Mexico!)

Here is Victoria’s story:

My personal coronavirus story started Monday, March 16th, as I was coming back from a weekend beach trip.

While my friends were still drinking beer and shouting along to songs on our bus, I started to receive panicked messages from my students about home-office. I reassured them that our classes would continue via webcam. I felt a sinking sensation inside.

On March 16th there were 82 confirmed COVID 19 cases in Mexico.

I had originally cancelled that beach trip due to unexpected student payment cancellations for March. My upcoming money problems depressed me and cancelling the trip felt like a noble sacrifice.

I had been reading more and more about the novel coronavirus as it made its way around the world, and I realized suddenly that the financial challenges I had been worried about would be nothing compared to what was coming.

-Victoria

I’m a freelance English teacher, and I give classes in the offices of multinational and Mexican companies. I had been reading more and more about the novel coronavirus as it made its way around the world, and I realized suddenly that the financial challenges I had been worried about would be nothing compared to what was coming.

So I decided to bite the bullet and go have some fun with friends before the coronavirus storm arrived to Mexico City.

I came back to a surreal new life.

Suddenly I didn’t have to wake at 5:00 am to give a 7:30 am class. I could get up at 7, make coffee, wash my face, and very comfortably give class on the sofa.

I had time to wash dishes, clean the kitchen, wash all my laundry, go to the supermarket, give my classes and sit with my two tortoiseshell cats and just think. And I realized everything was about to change.

My students are part of the highly privileged class – good jobs, with contracts and benefits and an empresarial vision that includes taking good care of their people. Some of that privilege spills over to me – I can do my work from home as they do – but I have no contract, only verbal agreements based on good relationships.

I immediately noticed a shift in priorities. One student complained to me that now that they were working remotely, there were excessive meetings and with no office hours to neatly structure work-life balance around, everyone worked long into the night and started early again the next day.

Working from home felt luxurious.

-Victoria

Another student, who had just lost her job and was taking classes to prepare for upcoming job interviews, cancelled because there was no more childcare available for her 5-year-old son. In another company where I have several groups, the students seem to have a hard time adapting to videoconference classes.

I found myself smiling a lot and being effusive and I noticed myself gesticulating on camera, to better communicate enthusiasm to my students through our slightly delayed digital interface. I want to keep working, I thought.

I normally spend all week traveling between offices and going to my classes, preparing and finding materials to use with my students, and I spend up to four hours a day just moving throughout the city using the subway, buses and Uber, depending on distance and traffic. Working from home felt luxurious.

I wasn’t sure if the nail shop would be open, but walking down the street I realized I was the one living in a bubble, while everyone else downtown was working.

-Victoria

Friday, March 20th I had a nail appointment and went out into the world, after my first four days of self-isolation. I wasn’t sure if the nail shop would be open, but walking down the street I realized I was the one living in a bubble, while everyone else downtown was working.

The owner of the nail shop breezily told me that she would continue working until the authorities came to shut them down. We don’t have any choice, she said. Besides, she added, a friend of hers had just come back from Spain and said the coronavirus wasn’t that big of a deal.

I thought about the reports I had read about Iran and Italy and curve-flattening and all, and I just answered, “I hope you’re right.”

Friends of mine went to a bar that night and sent messages in our WhatsApp group about how fear of the coronavirus wasn’t going to stop them from having a good time. Another friend made a Facebook event for April 4th to celebrate her birthday at a kitschy gay club. Actitud cool, she instructed.

Monday, March 23rd there was a press conference announcing that Mexico had officially entered Stage 2 of the coronavirus transmission. There were 367 confirmed cases and 4 deaths. Bars, nightclubs, zoos, saunas, gyms and movie theaters were officially closed.

I saw newspaper stand workers, shoe shiners and couples taking a stroll, carrying on with their lives. I only saw a few people with masks.

-Victoria

My friend changed the location of her Facebook birthday event to her apartment. She promised not to get angry with anyone who chose not to go.

That week I gave my classes and assured my students that we could reschedule classes or have class extra early, or extra late. I need to keep working. I marveled at how much I enjoyed being at my home and preparing food.

I tried not to think about money. I went out cautiously and found that on the street things were deceptively normal. I had to remind myself several times to wash my hands.

Contrary to popular belief, my two sweet cats don’t seem to be bothered by my ongoing presence. They slept next to me wherever I was sitting, and I found their company enormously comforting.

On Friday morning, March 27th, I ventured out on a photography mission. I wore my face mask. There were only a few less people on the street than pre-covid days.

I saw newspaper stand workers, shoe shiners and couples taking a stroll, carrying on with their lives. I only saw a few people with masks.

Many street vendors that sell candies or reading glasses or batteries also displayed bottles of antibacterial gel, gloves and very flimsy-looking face masks. I was careful not to let people get too close to me.

Friday afternoon a company where I give several groups called. They wanted to renegotiate the cost of the classes. I felt that my work was being undervalued. They explained that the other option would be to suspend classes.

For the first time since I was a teenager, there is finally enough time for everything, including nothing and amazingly guilt-free.

-Victoria

Today is Sunday, March 29th. Every day more and more friends have been posting memes and images with the hashtag #quedateencasa (stay at home) and sharing different tricks for hand washing the correct length of time (for example, singing the chorus from Como La Flor by Selena), and comedians explaining tips to avoid getting infected or making jokes about social distancing.

Friends who had previously made fun of the coronavirus are quiet on social networks now.

I realize it is a luxury to be able to self-isolate and live the social distance lifestyle.

About 60% of the Mexican workforce is informal. Most people have to go out on the street every day to put food on the table. Most people can’t do their job remotely. I know I can, and that I can contribute by staying holed-up in my apartment. And paying my cleaning lady to stay at home.

I’m not sleepy at night anymore. I used to get to bed exhausted and not ever get enough sleep during the week since my class hours are built around my students’ 9 to 6 schedules.

When this weekend came, I made a conscious decision not to think about work, or lack of it, and to ignore the impulse to be productive. I knew where would be plenty of time Monday to focus and explore solutions.

For the first time since I was a teenager, there is finally enough time for everything, including nothing and amazingly guilt-free. It has been exactly two weeks. I have only left my apartment a handful of times. Now I wash my hands several times a day, even when I don’t go out.

This week I will reach out to my students. I will be pleasant and matter-of-fact. I will cross my fingers.

I’m equally thrilled at this unreal gift of time and somber as I read updates and articles about how everything and everyone will be affected.

-Victoria

I don’t want to leave my house at all now. I have been messaging excessively with all my friends the whole weekend. I did a 40 minute FaceTime call with a friend this evening, and last night I gossiped with one girlfriend while I drank pox, a Mexican spirit from Chiapas.

Then I did a video call in WhatsApp with another friend while he drank beer and played music for us.

He works in IT and doesn’t have the option to do remote work but at least his job isn’t in jeopardy. He took off his shirt because the weather has been hot and that’s what you do in the comfort of your own home.

I took my phone to my kitchen and made quesadillas. Sometimes the connection got weak and there was some stuttering, but we had fun, and I felt better about everything.

I received a Facebook notification that my friend’s birthday event has been canceled. Today, March 29th, there are 993 confirmed COVID-19 cases and 20 deaths in Mexico.

I’m complying with the only big thing I’m pressured to do: stay at home. The rest can wait.

-Victoria

Update (April 6): I will have enough work for the month. I’m equally thrilled at this unreal gift of time and somber as I read updates and articles about how everything and everyone will be affected.

I’ve been sleeping more, drinking more, eating more, chatting more and thinking more. I have time for all. I started reading fairy tails live on Instagram, and I’ve started drawing again. It feels good to do things just because I feel like it.

I’m almost ready to go back to yoga, but no pressure. I’m complying with the only big thing I’m pressured to do: stay at home. The rest can wait. As of last night, April 5th,  there are 2143 confirmed COVID-19 cases and 94 deaths in Mexico.